Explore a hidden network of covered shortcuts known as traboules. Roughly 400–500 exist across the city, with about 40–80 open to the public each day under the Courtyard and Traboule Agreement.
These secret passageways cut through buildings and courtyards, especially in Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse. Signage helps visitors: bronze shields, lion-head arrows, and information plaques guide the curious.
Why they matter: residents, WWII resistance fighters, and Canut silk workers used these routes for daily life and work. We’ll show respectful ways to walk them, which ones welcome visitors between 7 am and 7 pm, and the can’t-miss corridor from 54 Rue Saint-Jean to 27 Rue du Bœuf.
Key Takeaways
- Where to go: clusters in Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse make easy first stops.
- Hours: many are open 7 am–7 pm, year-round under city agreement.
- Respect: behave quietly and follow resident rules so doors stay open.
- Signs to spot: plaques, bronze shields, and lion-head arrows reveal hidden doors.
- Highlights: the long corridor between Rue Saint-Jean and Rue du Bœuf is perfect for families.
- Tours and tips: choose guided or self-guided tours to match your pace and interests.
Discovering Lyon’s hidden network beneath the city
Begin with a simple neighborhood map to target the densest clusters and save walking time.
About 200 traboules sit in Vieux Lyon, 160 on the Croix-Rousse slopes, and 130 on the Presqu’île. That means many traboules are close together, so plan one area at a time.
These secret passageways cut through buildings and courtyards, linking parallel streets. They can look private but often offer public right of way. Look for bronze shields in Vieux Lyon and lion-head arrows on the slopes.
Roughly 50 sites are signatories to the city agreement and should be open 7 am–7 pm, though doors may lock sometimes. If you want certainty, choose a guided tour. Otherwise use the iOS “Traboules” app and carry a flexible route with a back-up entry.
| Area | Approx. Count | Wayfinding | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vieux Lyon | 200 | Bronze shields | Start early; look for plaques |
| Croix-Rousse | 160 | Lion-head arrows | Try parallel street entries |
| Presqu’île | 130 | On-street signs | Plan a few backup doors |
- Respect residents; doors often lead to homes.
- Gentle push opens many doors when signed for access.
- Families enjoy short sheltered links on hot or rainy days.
Traboules, miraboules, and courtyards: what they are and why they matter
A single doorway often hides a tiny world of stair towers, wells, and covered links that tell a neighborhood story.
From trans-ambulare: how “traboules” became signature connectors
Traboule comes from the Latin trans-ambulare, literally “to pass through.” That origin explains the practical heart of the concept: these routes were built as short, direct links to move people and goods across the grid.
Think of a traboule as a designed connector — not just a hallway but a planned shortcut that moves you between streets without retracing blocks.
Miraboules vs. traboules: inner courtyards of beauty that lead nowhere
In the 1960s historian Félix Benoît coined “miraboules” for courtyards that do not lead through. They are quiet, decorative spaces meant to be admired rather than used to cross the quarter.
Expect features like spiral stairs, Italian galleries, small gardens, wells, and statuettes. Vieux Lyon hosts many Renaissance examples where form and ornament take center stage.
- Quick ID tip: if a courtyard opens to another street, it’s a traboule; if it ends in a garden or stairwell, it’s a miraboule.
- Plan smart: slot miraboules into leisurely moments and use active connectors when you need to move fast.
A brief history underfoot: from Roman Lugdunum to WWII resistance
Beneath the city’s streets lies a layered history that starts in Roman times and surfaces in every arch.
Early origins: In the 4th century residents of Lugdunum carved early links to reach the Saône when aqueducts failed. These simple solutions were born of need and fast movement.
Silk era and the Canut workforce
By the 19th century the routes became industrial arteries. Silk workers used traboules to carry heavy bolts from hilltop workshops to merchants below.
Role during World War II
During the world war years, familiar alleys turned into quiet lifelines. The Resistance moved people and messages through covered corridors with skill and secrecy.
“A traboule could be a shortcut for a worker and a refuge for those who opposed occupation.”
| Era | Role | Notable note |
|---|---|---|
| 4th century | Water access | Practical fixes near the Saône |
| Renaissance | Architectural layering | Ornament added to function |
| 19th century / Canut | Industry | Cour des Voraces symbol of revolt |
- Knowing this word history helps you read each arch.
- These traboules link people across eras — from hauling water to resisting control.
Vieux Lyon highlights: Renaissance courtyards, arches, and the longest traboule
Vieux Lyon rewards slow walking: arches, galleries, and pocket courtyards appear at every corner.
Start with the star link: the longest traboule runs from 54 Rue Saint-Jean to 27 Rue du Bœuf, crossing several small courtyards. It’s an easy, rewarding through-journey for first-timers and shows how these connectors keep you on parallel streets while hiding beauty.
The Maison des Avocats, 60 Rue Saint-Jean
Step into Maison des Avocats to find pink arcades and a tiny public garden. This rescued building was once slated for demolition and now shares restored heritage with the city.
La Tour Rose, 16 Rue du Bœuf
La Tour Rose is a favorite stop. The striking pink spiral tower defines the view. Peek up from inside the corridor or from the café above to see its curved charm.
- Expect Renaissance courtyards framed by arches perfect for photos.
- Look for plaques at doors that confirm a connecting rue is open by day.
- Quiet voices show respect: these are living buildings as well as historic links.
“If you like word origins, this quarter shows how ‘to pass through’ grew into a local calling card.”
Croix-Rousse hill: silk heritage, stairways, and the Cour des Voraces
Climb into the Croix-Rousse quarter and you meet stairwell traboules that once moved bolts of silk. The slope changed how people worked and how they moved.
Make the Cour des Voraces your anchor. It has three entrances: Place Colbert, Montée Saint-Sébastien, and Rue Imbert-Colomès. The open stair there is one of the oldest reinforced concrete stairwells in the city.
Stairway connectors and memory
Stairway traboules move you up and down as much as across. Some links, like 5 Rue Royale to 3 Quai André-Lassagne, hide a protected 17th‑century stair. Others run between 4 Rue de Thou and 5 Petite Rue des Feuillants.
Finding your way on the slope
Follow lion-head arrows when you can; they mark the best way. Signage is thinner here than in Vieux neighborhoods, so try the parallel door if one is locked. Patience pays—these small routes save time and reveal views.
| Spot | Entrances | Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Cour des Voraces | Place Colbert, Montée St‑Sébastien, Rue Imbert‑Colomès | Historic reinforced concrete stair |
| Rue Royale link | 5 Rue Royale → 3 Quai André‑Lassagne | 17th‑century protected stair |
| Rue de Thou link | 4 Rue de Thou → Petite Rue des Feuillants | Quiet multi-level traboule |
“This hill still whispers of des voraces: revolt, resistance, and daily life folded into stairways.”
Beyond the big two: Presqu’île passageways worth a detour
On the Presqu’île, a few tucked-away connectors make perfect lunchtime detours. They contrast busy shopping streets with calm courtyards and let you see a quieter side of the city.
From Rue Laurencin to Cour des Trois Passages and the Poulaillerie‑Forces link
Start with the reliable route: the connecting rue between 9 Rue Laurencin and the Cour des Trois Passages is a signatory to the city lyon agreement and is usually open public.
Nearby, a charming link runs from 13 Rue de la Poulaillerie—home to the Museum of Printing—to 2 rue des Forces. Its door can be closed, so plan a short alternative.
- Add one or two Presqu’île stops to your map if you’re near Bellecour or downtown.
- These lyon traboules are fewer and more scattered, so cluster visits to save time.
- Don’t force a closed door; note the address and try another signed entry later.
For families or a quick tour, these short traboule and courtyards offer a small, rewarding discovery off main streets.
Lyon underground passages: how to visit respectfully and efficiently today
Plan your visit with a few simple rules and you’ll enjoy these historic connectors without trouble.
Opening hours and the Courtyard and Traboule Agreement
The July 1990 agreement lets select private courtyards and traboules be open public from 7 am to 7 pm, every day of the year. The city helps pay for lighting, cleaning, and signs so access stays safe.
Maps and tools to save time
Download the “Traboules” iOS map before you leave and mark a couple of backups. Look for bronze shields and lion‑head arrows—these plaques confirm a right of way and cut guesswork.
Guided options and meeting points
If you want guaranteed access and local stories, book a guided tour. Most guided tours run about two hours. Meet outside the Vieux Lyon metro for Old Town routes or at Place de la Croix‑Rousse for hill tours.
- Stick to the 7 am–7 pm window; doors often lock after hours.
- Keep voices low and avoid litter so these courtyards stay welcoming to the public.
- For families, plan a calm day and brief stops so kids learn to respect living spaces.
| Option | Meet | Typical price |
|---|---|---|
| Vieux Lyon tour | Outside Vieux Lyon metro | ~12€ adults |
| Croix‑Rousse tour | Place de la Croix‑Rousse | ~12€ adults; 7€ youth |
| Self‑guided | Use app map | Free (reservation optional) |
Want to visit lyon confidently? Charge your phone, wear soft soles, and choose a mix of highlights and quiet corners. Treat each traboule as a shared home and the doors will stay open.
Plan your route: must-see connections and streets to prioritize
Start by pinning a few anchor streets that naturally link together on your walking map. This keeps your day efficient and helps you spot the best shortcuts between blocks.
Mark Rue Saint-Jean, Rue du Bœuf, and Rue des Trois Maries first. These streets are hubs in Vieux Lyon and unlock several open traboules.
Picture-perfect climbs and shortcuts
Near Place Colbert and Montée Saint-Sébastien, use the famed external staircase as a scenic connector.
These shortcuts add great views and a splash of silk-era history as you climb.
Self-guided pairs worth trying
Try these pairs to efficiently discover traboules:
- 27 Rue Saint-Jean → 6 Rue des Trois Maries
- 2 Place du Gouvernement → 10 Quai Romain Rolland
- 54 Rue Saint-Jean → 27 Rue du Bœuf (longer through-connection)
Practical route tips
- Keep a gentle pace on stairs and landings; you share the way with residents.
- Balance one guided tours slot with free exploration to learn context and then roam.
- If a door is closed, shift to a nearby starred address on your map.
| Route | Approx. walk | Why go | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 27 St‑Jean → 6 des Trois Maries | 5–8 min | Compact, family‑friendly | Start after coffee |
| 2 Place du Gouvernement → 10 Quai Romain Rolland | 8–12 min | Riverside finish | End near the quay |
| 54 St‑Jean → 27 Rue du Bœuf | 12–15 min | Longest continuous link | Great for photos |
Conclusion
Finish your route with a slow walk that ties together history, stone arches, and soft steps.
In the heart of the city, Vieux Lyon and croix-rousse hill hold the best of lyon traboules. We recommend pinning the longest traboule between 54 Rue Saint-Jean and 27 Rue du Bœuf. Add the Cour des Voraces for context on silk-era life and world war memory.
You’ll find many traboules are public under the city agreement. Move quietly, smile, and use signs and the app to visit lyon confidently. Each lyon secret invites respect—treat these homes well and the doors will stay open for the next curious traveler.